Tech Tip
I was recently researching on the subject of antifreeze/coolant to determine the best to use in my new radiator on my 36 Ford. I was quite shocked to learn that the modern cars use an entirely different formula, and you should never use the new stuff in your antique car. The delineating factor is if you have a brass copper solder radiator you must use the old formulas. The new stuff will literally eat the solder from the radiator as well as pit your cast iron block. I checked with two antifreeze companies Prestone and Peak and received the exact same information from their technical people . All modern formulations are for aluminum radiators ,do not use them. Prestone does have an intermediary formula in the yellow jug than can be used if the car is driven at least once a month. It has a service live five years. But if you’re like most people and it sets all winter they don’t recommend it. Both companies recommend what is called prime conventional green, it is a very old formula and the only negative about it is high toxicity and two year service life . I couldn’t find the prestone brand at any of the stores, but the Peak brand is readily available. Peak bottles it for NAPA , part number RTU1GAL. that’s the pre mixed,ready to use. So check your car and see if it is green, if it’s not you probably should change it. As a sidenote Bob Burkhalter can tell you how to determine when you’re antifreeze is going bad (it becomes acidic). Maybe we could get him to post that information on this site for you?Happy motoring Jeff Findlay
This from Brandon Stevens.
The article that Jeff Findley wrote was very informative and I also have one other option to add to the list that works with brass, copper, solder, cast iron that is low toxicity (pet friendly/environmentally friendly) and has a much longer service life. Amsoil propylene glycol antifreeze and coolant is what I use and I am an independent Amsoil dealer Z.O.493836 and have used this on my Model A and other antique equipment. I called the Amsoil technical assistance line and verified with their technical support that I had this right and they confirmed that this product can be used on antique and classic car cooling systems without any damage. It is compatible with all ethylene and propylene antifreeze products so a system can be drained and replaced with this coolant without any compatibility issues. The service life is rated at 5-6 years. I can get you a data sheet if you need any additional information. Amsoil also has Antifreeze test strips that have the ability to test pH levels. AMSOIL antifreeze test strips have two different pads on them and test ALL coolant colors. The lowest reports the freezing and boiling (under pressure) protection level. The upper pad reports the pH level and shows a pass/fail area. Using these test strips are the only way you can test a mixture of ethylene glycol and propylene glycol for freeze protection if you have mixed coolants in your cooling system.
This from Bobby Burkhalter: Coolant Testing with a Multimeter
Perform a quick diagnostic test for corrosion in your water pump, radiator, or heater core with a digital multimeter. A simple test of the radiator coolant for conductivity will the the story. A reading of .4 volts or less means the coolant is good. Replace the coolant if the reading is higher than .4 volts.
If you think the only job of antifreeze is to cool the engine during the summer and prevent freeze up during the winter, read on. Coolant also plays an important role in preventing corrosion caused by electrolysis. Electrolysis occurs when two dissimilar metals start swapping electrons, causing the metals to corrode. Since an engine has aluminum, copper, cast iron, steel and magnesium alloys, electrolysis will slowly eat away at its innards. Coolant has additives to prevent all of that electron swapping. But, as coolant ages the additives are depleted and can't do the job anymore. In fact, worn coolant becomes a pretty darn good electrical conductor, accelerating internal electrolysis. The good news is that it's pretty easy to check the conductivity of your coolant with a digital multimeter. If the conductivity is high, it's time for a coolant flush and fill. Here's a quick way to check it.
Begin with a cold engine. Remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Set your digital multimeter to DC volts at 20 volts or less. When the engine reaches operating temp, insert the positive probe directly into the coolant. Rev the engine to 2000 RPM and place the negative probe on the negative battery terminal. If the digital multimeter reads .4 volts or less your coolant is in good condition. If it's greater than .4 volts, the electrolysis additives are exhausted and you may be in the market for a new radiator, water pump or heater core in the future. All those are far more expensive than a simple coolant change. NOTE. The only tool needed for this project is a digital multimeter.
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MEMBERS CARS FOR SALE:
1959 Studebaker Lark. Pat Lawson is offering her '59 Studebaker LARK for sale, asking $5,500. New wheel cylinder new master cylinder, with new brake and fuel lines and tires. Car was partially restored in 2014 and has been stored in a heated garage. Several additional Studebaker parts come with the car. Contact Pat Lawson at 765-477-7102 or at pmlawson2@comcast.net Photo of the car is shown above.